Learning to Cross in Traffic, and Other Adventures

When stepping off the curb into a flowing mass of traffic, remember to move slowly and steadily across the street. Motorbikes will weave around you. Cars and trucks are less maneuverable and expect you to wait for them to pass in the flow. Joy is getting really good at it even in heavy rush hour traffic on the 8 lane roads. I, however, started thinking about what we were doing and got more and more nervous until we had to stop and have famous Vietnam Pho noodles and beer for dinner. (My hands were shaking to much for a picture of the noodles.)
But before that, we spent the day on a tour to the largest Cao Dai Temple and the Chu Chui tunnels which were a huge Viet Cong tunnel complex about 2 hours outside of Ho Chi Minh City.
The Cao Dai Religion ( we saw a small temple yesterday in the Mekong Delta) was founded in 1926. Our tour guide said that this religion attempted to resolve conflicts in Vietnamese people's minds over being taught Confucianism, Budhism, and Catholicism by different colonial powers of China, the French and the influences of India over the last 1000 years. This religion lets a person pick one of the three as a personal core religion, and add from both of the other religions to achieve a total belief system.
Tourists were allowed into the galleries of the temple to watch a worship service in progress. We were allowed to take pictures. The worshipers wore different color robes--white for those of less than 10 years membership. Yellow, gold, and blue for beyond 10 years to identify which of the three is their base religion. there is also some sort of hierarchy involved. It felt a little disrespectful to be an observer along with a ton of other tour groups but apparently it is ok with them. The service was mostly chanting while we were there. The people are required to worship three times a day for 45 minutes. The faithful apparently go home, put the robes on over their clothes, worship, then go on with the day.
Next we went to the Cu Chi tunnel complex. The Vietnamese built up a three level, 200 km long tunnel system from 1954 to 1975 that included kitchen, hospitals, and booby traps. Some children literally were born and partially grew up in the tunnels. On one hand it was really interesting to learn about. On the other hand, it is never comfortable being referred to as the "American Aggressors" over and over. Even though the section open for tourists has been enlarged, it was a snug fit. We went only one or two hundred feet to the next opening. My legs were still trembling from walking hunched down so far. You can see Joy in her blue shirt leading into a narrow passage.
The last picture is of people with booths in the day market, packing everything up for the night. Only to have to unpack it the next morning.

Late Update- What To Do During A Saigon Evening

Watch reruns on tv?
Or
Stroll the night markets, pick out a tempting night restaurant that has been set up on the side of the road, and order fresh spring rolls, grilled fish, and beer on ice.

Adventure on the Mekong Delta!

Our generation learned about Vietnam in the context of the Vietnam war. What we saw today is the new Vietnam, finally at peace after generations of being at war. The people are incredibly happy and friendly.
We took a fantastic tour of the Mekong Delta by speed boat- the breeze was wonderful in the 90 degree heat. The tour groups are small (8 people) and we did not see any other tour groups on this trip.These are a few of our many photos.
--A rice combine harvester in a Delta village. Vietnam surpassed Thailand to be the largest exporter of rice in the world this year. The village farm was celebrating the first day of the rice harvest -a three times a year event and we just happened to be there.The owner of the farm broke out homemade honey wine and shared the celebration with our group. See the jar of wine before filtering? They make it from rice wine and honeycombs including bees! See the next picture where Joy is drinking it? After Joy proved it was safe, I tried a sip. It was very good.
--The delta is a maze of 1500km of river channels. Tiny fishing boats, small barges and huge barges share a narrow channel on the Mekong which makes it very interesting to watch. The boats have big eyes painted on the bow to intimidate the alligators. Of course, there are no longer alligators but the tradition continues for luck and safety. Every boat was heavily loaded, just shortp of sinking. Look at the empty green sand and gravel carrier and then the next one where it is submerged to deck level! Heavily loaded boats also carried sugarcane to the mills and rice to the hulling factories.
--The rural market was fascinating. They sold duck, chicken, and quail eggs. If one needs more strength or a woman is pregnant, they eat eggs that have been fertilized and the duck is partially formed. This small rural market with narrow isles was a friendly place to visit- even the motorbikers riding through the market were patient with us being in their way. Wait, are those live chickens hanging off from that motorbike??
--We had a really good lunch which was actually served at a rural orphanage. we were served a multi course meal and local beer made with honey.Check out the traditional fish that was part of it.
--We walked to a Cao Dai temple. Cao Daism was formed in the 1920s and combines the basic beliefs of Buddism,Taoism, Christianity, Confucionism, and Islam under the belief that there is one God with lots of different approaches to the common beliefs of most faiths. Doesn't that concept sound a bit familiar all you UUs? that being said, very few people are Cao Daists . So, can you identify Jesus, Buddha, or anyone else on the bias relief at the temple?
--Wait I almost forgot! The yellow abandoned looking factory building represents a new form of speculative investment. Someone buys an empty building, and tries to lure bird nest soup swallows by broadcasting the sound of birds chirping. If they settle in, the nests are worth $2000 per kilogram. If they don't the owner goes broke.

Made it to Vietnam!

The biggest risk on the entire trip was making our connection in Tokyo--- from our arriving United flight to our Japan Airline leg to Saigon. 30% on time record for United. One flight a day from Tokyo to Saigon. Odds were not good. Of course our flight was late, but AMAZING Japan Airlines had an agent meet our flight with a placard showing the names of the five Saigon passengers on the United flight. She had a radio to the JAL gate, gathered us up, guided us through security, rushed us across the airport and to our plane! (We have slept in airports three times with United.)

We're just settling in but after the first day
-we already know that Viet Nam is all about food!
-we are enjoying summer weather, flowers blooming everywhere, like at this garden surrounding a statue of Ho Chi Minh
-and realize that the gorgeous flowering tree in front of the hotel is actually artificial
-that 800ft building soaring above the city is the new Bitexco Financial Tower
-The very large garden in the red container is an entire mountain scene in Bonsai-like miniature.
-lots of interesting museums, open air markets, but did we mention the food?
Tomorrow we're taking a boat tour of some of the Mekong Delta. Should be more photo worthy.

Enough snow already!

We're off tomorrow for some warm weather adventure in Vietnam and Thailand.

Why Buddhism Made This Trip Better (and safer!)

Thailand, Cambodia, and Laos are countries with many Buddhists. This seems to have a wonderful effect on the people and many everyday attitudes in these countries.
Buddhism seems to emphasize trying to be a peaceful and better person. Not just as a lofty ideal, but in continual practice throughout the day.
As Greg pointed put, it seems to encourage cooperation rather than competition and conflict under crowded conditions--people work together trying to get through traffic on sidewalks or in the street. No horns, no passive aggressive behavior. No getting irritated at the things that can't be changed. People were always happy to spend time helping tourists, without worrying that we were slowing down their work.
As we left a hotel in Northern Thailand, the young lady at the front desk wished us good luck and happy travels as we continued our trip. She tied a good fortune bracelet on Joy and me. We both found that we had kept them on for the remainder of the trip because it have us a connection to the Buddhist practice of outgoing kindness.

Thanks for sharing our adventure!

20 hours: on the way home

Modern technology! We're in Houston, Texas waiting for our last flight ( to Boston). Already did about 6 hours Bangkok to Tokyo and about 11 hours Tokyo to Houston-- watched four movies to pass the time and read half a book. Joy read an entire book and asked me to remind everyone that she reads faster and sleeps less :)